JMS Hockey

I'm retiring my last Easton SE16 tonight after a crack through the blade so I'm back on the market for a new stick. This got me thinking: why do you use the stick you do? I've played with folks who are effective with an old sherwood wooden stick all the way to players who geek out on custom tailored built sticks. What's your preference?

I currently use an Easton Mako M2 in the P3 Hall pattern. It feels good and I got the stick on clearance, so the price was right. My nephew on the other hand has a custom made stick that is perfect for him made by Base out of Canada. They run about $150, but it is the perfect matched flex, lie and blade curve for him. I used to use and still have an old school wood stick that i used at the local pond.

a teensey bit off topic: 5 NHL players who use unique sticks http://www.thescore.com/nhl/news/544713

Annd... here is something I sent to *a beginner* recently: Stick: You should be fine with someone's spare stick, but you have to choose a hand. You are lucky -- as a beginner, you can set patterns the right way. Here is a great article on determining hockey stick handedness: http://www.hockeygiant.com/should-i-shoot-left-handed-or-right-handed.htm l chose wrong and acclimated myself that way, now feels too late to change :-( Sticks come in a huge variety of flex and curves. I am 5'10" and have found that an INTERMEDIATE stick is perfect for me. Cutting a stick reduces its flex (think about which is easier to break, a long pencil or a short one). I was told by the excellent coach, Rob Little that no adult novice should be playing with a stick of more than 80 flex. For me, intermediate sticks come at the right size without cutting, and also the right flex. As a beginner, you won't want or be able to get all the use out of a very stiff stick. Get something whippy to start. I also would caution against any wicked curves -- you won't know how to use them right away and it will probably impede your progress. Get something flat and first learn to play--THEN get fancy with a curve. The other thing I've found useful is determining the LIE of the blade. That's the angle the blade and the stick make when the blade is flat on the ice As a new player, you'll almost certainly be standing up more than in proper hockey position, so I would get a lie that takes that into account, and puts your blade on the ice even when you're standing a bit. I would go for a higher lie as a beginner. Here is some more info on stick fitting: http://www.totalhockey.com/support/How_to_fit_hockey_sticks/pg_id/202#stick_sizing

I have tried many composite sticks, Easton se16, s17, Bauer Vapor, one95 and Nexus, Reebok, and Christian Torch 85 to 100 flex.. I broke 4 sticks in less than one year, so I went to the CCM RBZ 65 flex, absolutely love this stick! The price was right and just love the feel of this stick, I had never been a big fan of CCM sticks in the past, tried vector and hated it, but they won me over with the RBZ.

I bought a warrior dynasty and ccm rbz. Both are my favorite sticks but the warrior dynasty feels more comfortable in my hands and is the lightest stick I've ever seen. I've brought both to to the bench and I always end up switching to the warrior stick. With the warrior dynasty being so light it damages and breaks easily. My first one broke by a taking a shot but warrior replaced it even after 30 days outside the warranty. The warrior dynasty is the only stick I've ever known that will make you a better hockey player by improving shots, passes and stick handeling

The unbreakable hockey stick http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=owZht4eY1Bc

I am still trying to figure that out. Lately I have been going through sticks like they are going out of style. I'm at 4-5 since January. My favorite is the Bauer total 1 limited edition, I had 2 before they stopped making them. I have found similar but not the same. I try to keep the stick pretty similar 85flex 5lie Crosby curve. But I have been trying others.

I had some wood sticks when I started out and wanted to spend as little money as possible in case the hobby didn't stick. I ended up shredding the blades of them every month or two playing out in California. So I got a composite and having them last for years is great. I also didn't think the weight would matter, but the composite helped a lot with my stick handling over a full game by simply not putting my dodgey wrists through as much work. I get Bauer due to my good experiences with them, and the fact that they had the best documentation about what the stick configurations were when I bought my first one. I favor a flat lie since it gives me a little more leeway in stick positioning so the puck doesn't slip under it. I started with a very open face to give me variety in the height of my shots and have moved down to a merely open face with JMS since more of the play is further from the net.

She made this post as an attempted reply to the blog -- reposting here: From KJ Ela I usually choose sticks by what's on sale, often wait a few years after a new stick line comes out until it's been tested and when the price drops. I'm kinda hooked on the feel of one piece sticks. I loved the Easton SE16 stick, great feel and balance, blade on mine also cracked, but got several seasons out of it, wore out 2 but then Easton discontinued it. I'd buy it again if I could find it. I didn't like feel of Mako, which I was told was what replaced the SE16. So I bought an Easton EQ 50 I found on sale in a slightly different pattern, and that was not as good but ok, but it got "spongy" after one season. My current stick is a grip CCM RBZ 100 (TaylorMade), bought this spring- but has a different balance and feel than the SE16. I like a 5.5 lie (probably 'cuz that's what I started with), right handed (even though I'm right handed I could not imagine shooting left), 65 flex so use an intermediate shaft and like it cut off an inch or so (I'm ~5'10 and lightweight), current stick has Tavares blade pattern, but I've also used and liked Sakic/Hall, Iginla and even a Heatley. Certain blade curves make it easier for me to lift the puck. I look for as lightweight stick as possible, that has helped reduce some elbow tendinitis and shoulder issues. When I switch patterns it takes some practice to find accuracy. I tape the blade all the way to end to try to reduce blade damage. I play mostly D but take wrist and snap shots more than slap shots. I'd consider a Base except I can't get the blade pattern I want with an intermediate shaft. For D I'd prefer a larger squared off blade (like the old Pronger pattern), but can't find that with an intermediate shaft in a one piece. I prefer a grip shaft but if I can't find that I just apply tape in a spiral pattern. I also have an old wood Sherwood PMP 5030 I started out with that I use on outdoor ice.

The most important things I've been told is that the cheaper composite sticks typically will have greater durability and less performance (they tend to be stronger materials like fiberglass and less carbon fiber). Obviously then the opposite has often been true for the really high end sticks $200-300. Those expensive sticks will always outperform your less expensive ones but will also be painful when the break. The other thing I've never liked about the really expensive sticks is that they seem to get "rubbery" after you use them for a while (assuming they didn't break). I feel like I've struck a happy medium: I use a Warrior 2 piece Evo (this is discontinued now but they make other ones similar). I was always snapping blades on my sticks so I figured a two piece was a better option. The blade does seem to take the most wear and tear. The Evo has been a phenomenal 2 piece. It's very responsive and quite affordable at about $100 for the shaft. I would imagine this puts it in the "mid range" of the stick spectrum. The beauty of the mid range stick is that they last a lot longer than the high end stuff but they also give you very good performance. My first shaft lasted close to 18 months playing an average of 2 times every week. It also made it through nearly an entire AHA winter season. I bought a second and have now had that for at least 5-6 months with no complaints.

I'm currently using Bauers Vapor APX P88 curve 85 flex lie 6. Reason I like the Vapor line of sticks is the contoure and roundness of the shaft, makes for a good fit in the palm. I've had great durability out of the sticks, broke two (both times user issues). Weight of the high end sticks keeps me coming back and price between most top end and lower end (with similar weight) is minimal. The mid blade curve helps allow for back hand passing and receiving. Only issue I have with all composite sticks is how much pop they have when receiving hard passes, again is is just my experience or lack there of with proper technique.

finally took a plunge and switched to two piece.I got Reebook 16k for shaft.blades are 49.99 59.99,with performance of a $120 stick.I know you can get one piece on clearance for 70-80 when they got`em.If they don't and you need it??? A big plus was that TH will honor their $10 off even when you buy just the blade.Once you invested in shaft you ll get $120 stick for $40.

http://www.hockeygiant.com/hockey-giant-buying-guide-how-to-buy-hockey-sticks.html

I want your broken sticks. I make picture frames out of them.

I've been using an Easton V5e grip for the last year or so. I really like it, durable and I can get a decent shot off with it. I grew up using Sherwood and Montreal wood sticks. I've been a big fan of Easton sticks for the last few years.

I have slowly and steadily purchased more expensive sticks, but I always buy them on clearance. My first stick was a Reebok 6K (retail $120, bought for $80) that I really liked - my first composite stick. Then I upgraded to the Bauer Nexus 600 ($110) and then 8K (retail $170, paid $90) and they had noticeably better feel, better shots, and were lighter. I broke the blade on both Reeboks - I no longer buy that brand. Now I have a Warrior Covert DT2 ($240/$90) and could not be happier. Buy this stick with a 75 flex: http://www.hockeymonkey.com/warrior-hockey-stick-covert-dt2-grip-sr.html A $240 stick for $84!

Addition: The Covert is the lightest stick I have used (makes it easy to stick handle and move stick while poke-checking or battling in the corners), offers the hardest shot (the way it loads up is tough to describe but it is so easy and the pucks really fly), receives the hardest passes with ease, looks awesome, is BY FAR the most durable stick (even the paint seems like it's Kevlar!), and you won't see a handful of them every game.